- Our fowls, in common with fowl of other
countries, had the origin of different bloodlines. Being unable to give the
relative connections make the following information somewhat unlinked. The word
“pure” is normally a misconception as to my belief, no fowl is pure now because
of the many infuses even from the people who started to breed in the US during
the early days. For the information of everyone we will post here below the
names of the breeds and their originators based from researches from the US as
follows: (You decide now if the word “Pure Breed” is still available)
ARKANSAS TRAVELER: Originator, Col.
Jim Rodgers of North Carolina. Bloodlines: Arrington fowl. Description: Blue,
red, grey, pea and straight comb, red eyes, yellow legs. Shows definite
relationship to old Sumatra. The Traveler in his own right has a very marked
and imperative quality to success, i.e. agility.
ROUNDHEADS: The Roundheads originated
by crossing Jap & Asil Orientals with Straight Comb Bankava Mediterranean fowl
such as English and American Straight Combs. This began long years ago and is
currently practiced (1966). The product is Allen Roundheads, Bostons, Saunders,
Sheltons, Lacey’s, Hulseys, Perkins, Killers, Claret Roundheads, Negros,
Mayberry, Cowan, Lundy, etc. Allen made his first Roundheads from Grist-Gradys
fowl by breeding to the Oriental side around 1900. A second Allen Family was an
importation from Massachusetts of Dr. Saunders Roundheads in the early 1920’s.
LACEY ROUNDHEAD hen. Originated by
the late Judge Lacey of Alabama. Smart, one-stroke clippers who seldom had body
contact with opponent. Often stayed sound and unscratched to an old age. Judge
Lacey was a master breeder and like Mr. Allen believed in the invincible. After
Mr. Allen, Judge Lacey’s Fowl dominated the field and for years after his death.
Perhaps as important was the Judge’s influence in preventing his associates
from using lesser fowl.
ASEEL: Originator - an Oriental
graded by Graves, McCoy, Rampour, Vizzard, Clark and others in U.S.A.
Description: general, dark red. Caginess and superb constitution, native, and
imperative to success.
JAP (SHAMO): Origination: Oriental,
Malay. Description: of Oriental grades and order of degree; example (1) Malay,
(2) Jap, (3) Aseel, (4) Boston R. H., (5) Allen R. H., (6) Claret R. H., etc.
Description: mostly large, powerful, cagy, unlimited endurance, light colored
legs and eyes, high station, great feet.
BARNETT WONDERS: Originator, J. E.
Barnett. Bloodlines: Derby, Everett, Claiborne, John Stone Roundhead
Claiborne. Description: Red eyes, white and yellow legs, Claiborne color.
BEE MARTINS: Originator, Charlie
Morre, S. C. Bloodlines: Means Red Cuban, Hopkins Warhorse. Description:
Dark and red eyes, dark legs; black, black red, some spangle and brass back.
BLACK HACKLES: Originator: Jarvis
Ellis, Penn. Description: Dark and black red, black hackle, dark legs.
BLACK HAWKS: Originator: E. Perigo,
Thompson, MO. Bloodlines: Gordon Cock, Bacon-Hopkinson Warhorse.
BROWN RED PANTHERS: Originator: Geo
Scliffet, 1930. Penna. Bloodlines: Half Fowler Brown, red quarter Snyder
Warhorse, quarter Carpenter Gull. Description: Cocks dark brown, dark legs,
straight comb.
MINER BLUES: Perpetuator, Loyd
Miller, Ill. Bloodlines: Nick Vipond Blues. Description: Blue red, light
reds, dark blue, white, yellow, and darks legs.
BLUE BOONES: Originator, Alva
Campbell, KY. Description: Blue red and Dom.
BLUE JEWS: Originator, Capt.
Mayberry, Ala. Description: Blue shades; dark and red eyes, dark and yellow
legs, straight. and pea comb.
CAROLINA BLUES: Originator, W. S.
Church, N. C. Description: Blue, blue red, Pyle.
KNOB COMB BLUES: Originator, B.
Shelton, Miss. Bloodlines: Cripple Tony R. H., Sledge and Hanna Traveler.
Description: Blue, pea comb, yellow legs.
TYPEWRITER BLUES: Originator, Judge
Wilkins, Texas. Description: Blue shades.
DARCY BLUES: Originator, B. F.
Anderson, Ohio. Bloodlines: Blue Jews, Koppman Tassel Blues, Filipino Tassels.
Description: Blue red, Pyle; red eyes, slate and willow legs.
BUTCHER BOYS: Originator, A. J.
Street, Ind. Description: Black breasted, red, red eyes, yellow legs.
BOYCE WHITE SOX: Originator, W. W.
Boyce, N. Y. Bloodlines: Gilkerson North Britton Whitehackle Cock X Gull
Commodore, Claiborne hen. Description: Whitehackle appear.
BROMLEY PYLES: Originator, J. R.
Bromley, Mich. Two strains - Gennett Ply, Quebec white Ply R. H.
WILD CAT BLUES: Originator, C. C.
Lundy, Ga. Bloodlines: English Blue Cock X Knobcomb blue hens; possibly Lundy
R. H. blood. Description: Blues, Pyles, green and yellow legs, red eyes.
CALLAGHAN FOWL: Originator, W. E.
Callaghan, Mich., 19 Bloodlines: Lowman Whitehackle vs. Roundhead, Claiborne,
Grist Grady, Red Quill.
EVERETT CLAIBORNE: Originator, James
Sanford, 1841. Bloodlines: Early Derby Cock X black Spanish hens X over
daughters. Description: Smooth head, light and dark legs, white wing, and
tail, some spangle.
CASSIDY IRISH MUFFS: Importer: Tom
Adir, 1910. Bloodlines, Irish. Description: Black red, brown red, heavy muff.
COPPERHEADS: Originator, W. L.
Matlock, Athens, Tenn. Bloodlines: Arkansas Traveler, Bushwacker, Loving Blue,
Irish Blood.
DANGERFOOTS: Originator, James
Barnett, Knoxville, Tenn. Bloodlines: Hedgefence hen X dark leg Allen R. H.
Cock. Description: Dark red, blue shades, darks legs and eyes.
GEE DOMS: Originator, Dr. Gee, 1850.
Bloodlines: not known (Experts on the question class Doms as related to the
Sumatra). Description: Color dom, guinea red, orange, white, red eyes, yellow
legs.
CASSIDY DOMS: Originator, R. Cassidy,
Iowa, 1913. Bloodlines: Minton, Harvey, Chappell Doms. Description: All
colors dom, white and yellow legs, red eyes.
HARVEY SHUFFLING DOMS: Originator, W.
L. Harvey, S. C. Bloodlines: Huddleston Doms, Cuban Doms, Thompson White, Peas
Soup Pyle, Arkansas Traveler, O’Neal Dom. Description: All dom shades, yellow
legs, usually straight. comb.
KENTUCKY DOMS: Originator, J. B.
Frymore, Ky. Bloodlines: O’Neal Dom, Norwood Doms, Mugwump, Dom & Grey, Grist
Grady, Smoke Ball. Description: Dom shades, white, white and yellow legs,
straight. comb.
O’NEAL DOMS: Bred by, Tom O’Neal, Ky.
Description: Light, dark and white, white and yellow legs.
SURE SHOT DOMS: Originator, G. E.
Robb, Mo. Bloodlines: Minton Dom, White Tail, Grist Champion. Description:
Dom shades, white and yellow legs, red eyes, straight. and pea comb.
DYER’S IRISH BROWN REDS: Originator,
Ireland, 1885, by Dyer.
EMPIRE STATE REDS: Originator, Stanton
Townsend, N. Y. in ‘90’s. Bloodlines: Quarter, Claiborne, Shawlneck,
Heathwood, Lowman Whitehackle.
GREEN LEGGED TOPPIES: Originator, Wilkins,
Texas, 1890. Bloodlines: Grimmie, Tate Claiborne, Roundhead. Description:
Red eye, green white and dark legs, usually topknot, and black-breasted reds,
some spangle.
GREY DRAGON MUFFS: Originator, A. L.
Shapmore, R. I. Description: 90 percent Muff.
GREY TORMENTORS: Originator, R. R.
Raines, Ky. Bloodlines: Four Greys, Grimble, Gordon, Ginn, Mortgage Lifter.
GREY SPEEDERS: Originator, E. E.
Weller, N. Y. Bloodlines: Bohler Fair-Warhorse X Smoke Ball-Sangamingo Cock.
GINN GREY: Originator, S. A. Ginn,
Ga. Description: Light silver grey to white, red eyes, white and yellow legs,
straight. and pea comb, some Tassel.
CHAMPION GREYS: Originator, W. H.
McCurdy, Ft. Payne, Ala., 1909. Bloodlines: Dark Grey Cock X one Ginn Grey
hen, Cock over daughters and inbred. Description, Grey, dark eyes and legs,
straight. comb.
HOLLAND GREYS: Originator, C.
Holland, Vinemont, Ala. Bloodlines: Black Hennie Cock X Boone-Redmond hen and
inbreeding. Description: Dark Grey, lead color legs, straight. and pea comb,
grey and black eyes.
GRIMMIES: Originator, Henry Grimme.
Bloodlines: Williss Irish Reds, Coblin Irish, Huddleston and English Derby
Greys.
JOE HOWELL GREYS: Origin: England..
Bloodlines: Tassel Grey Cock added 1900. Description: Light to dark grey.
MISSOURI PACIFIC GREYS: Originator,
Jack Dycus, Mo., approx. 1907. Bloodlines: Irish Grey, Joe Redmond Grey,
Toppie Grey, Warhorse. Description: Dark grey, dark green legs.
GRIST Champions: Originator, Col. F.
E. Grist, Ga. Bloodlines: Claiborne, Shawlneck, Warhorse, Red Quill.
Description: Bright red, dark breast, some pumpkin, dark greenish legs, red
eyes, straight. comb.
GRIST GRADYS: Originator, Col F. E.
Grist, Ga. Bloodlines: Grist Champion, infused Spanish.
HENNIES: Bloodlines: Heavy in
Oriental blood. Description: Coal black, resemble hens.
HAMMOND GORDON: Originator, J. H.
Hammond, S. C. Bloodlines: Bacon Warhorse, Aldrick Mugwump, infused Rood
Warhorse.
HEATHWOOD: Originator, Wm. Walton,
Brooklyn. Bloodlines: Walpool White hen X Earl Derby Cock by Woodruff.
Description: Color bred, red.
HINDMAN WILDCATS: Originator, N. A.
Hindman, W. Va. Bloodlines: Old Colonial fowl from Missouri, infused by
Claiborne, Dangerfoot, Grey Speeders, Warhorse, Allen Roundhead.
HOOSIER CYCLONES: Originator, Dr.
Brose Horne, Ind. Bloodlines: Redmond, Traveler, Warhorse, Irish Tassel, Muff,
Dom and unknown cock.
HOPKINSON BLACK-GRAYS: Originator,
Walter Hopkinson. Bloodlines: Irish Grey cock and Warhorse hen.
HURRICANE RED: Originator, Howard
Benthiem, N. Y. Bloodlines: Valley Grey hen X R. H. Whitehackle Cock,
producing half Whitehackle, Quarter R. H., eight Asil eight Claiborne.
Description: Blackbreasted red, white in wings and tail, all tassels, most pea
comb, white and yellow legs.
JOE REDMONDS: Originator, Col. Grist,
approx 1780. Bloodlines: Color bred from Grist fowl or outside grey cock
cross.
LAWLER MUFFS: Originator, Mile
Lawler, N. Y., Penna., 1850. Description: Brown red, prominent muffs, dark
eyes, green legs.
MAHONEY GULL: Originator, Dennis
Mahoney, N. Y. Bloodlines: North Briton, Whitehackle Cock X over Canadian
hens. Description: Cock usually black-breasted reds, straight comb, yellow
legs and beak.
LAW YANKEE CLIPPERS: Originator, E.
W. Law. Bloodlines: Madigin Claret, Old Albany. Description: Reds, some
spangles, straight and occasional pea comb, white and yellow legs.
MERCER BLACKS AND REDS: Originator,
Bob Mercer, Missouri, Mont. Blacks by American blood, Reds by Asil infusion.
MOUNTAIN
EAGLES: Originator, W. S. Church, N. C. Bloodlines: Blackhackle, Mugwump,
Shawlneck, Cuban, others. Description: Blues, reds, greys.
MUGWUMPS: Originator, Col Alfred
Aldridge, S. C. Bloodlines: Bacon Warhorse, Major Rhett B. B. Reds, a
Baltimore cock, 1890. Description: Black, black red, dark legs, dark and red
eyes.
OLD DUTY MILLERS: Originator, Peter
Dunn, Ky. Bloodlines: Dom, Baltimore Top Knot.
PILSON MUFFS: Originator, Sheriff
Robinson of Baltimore Co. Bloodlines: Irish Muff X Wellslager hens.
MEANS RED CUBAN: Originator, G. W.
Means, N. C. Bloodlines: Spanish, American infusion.
RACE HORSE: Originator, Jim Curry,
Ohio, approx. 1878. Description: Blue-reds, Cinnamon dark eyes, dark and green
legs.
RED QUILLS: Originator, Elsins,
Washington, D. C. Bloodlines: Red Horse, Winian fowl. Description: Light and
dark ginger or pumpkin red, red quills in feathers, green or willow legs, dark
eyes, straight. comb. One of the all time great bloodlines.
SHAWLNECKS: Originator, Chas. Brown
or Barclay or both. Bloodlines, somewhat indefinite. Description: Light red,
white and yellow legs, straight comb, Brown family smooth head, Barclay topknot.
One of the very few great strains.
SHENANDOAHS: Origin - imported by
Shenandoah. Description: Blue reds, ginger red.
SID TAYLORS: Originator, Sid Taylor,
Ky. Bloodlines: Shy fowl, Irish fowl by Huddleston 1870, waddle Irish
infusion. Description: Black to light brown red, dark eyes and legs.
RED
HORNETS: Originator, George Fuller, Ill. Bloodlines: Quarter Dom, Warren
Powell Black, Surrey Tassell, Bob Solomon Muff. Description: Cocks mahogany
red.
SMOKE BALLS: Originator, Frymores
(from Glover & Meroney). Bloodlines: Shawlneck, Claiborne, Elsin Red Quill,
Murphy Dougherty White Tail, Smoke Ball, Grady, Mugwump, Norwood Blue, Boone Red
Shuffler. Description: Reds, blues.
SHAMROCKS: Originator, Col Geo.
Julian, Ind. Description: Most black reds, some white feathers in wing and
tail, dark or yellow legs, straight comb.
SWAMP FOXES: Originator, Dal
Johnson,.S. C. Bloodlines: Warhorse X Rhett Morgan fowl, X Spanish strain.
Description: All shades reds to jet black, some white plumage, some black and
white spangles, some R. H. pea comb.
SURRY TASSELS: Origin: England.
Description: Red breasted, red or cinnamon brown, heavy tassel.
VALLEY GREYS: Originator, Howard
Benthlem, N. Y. Bloodlines: Kearney Cock X half Tait Claiborne, half asil hen.
Description: st. and pea comb, white and yellow legs.
STRIKER STRAIN: Originator, Erwin
Aldrich, N. Y. Bloodlines: Dr Cooper’s Tartars, John Stone fowl, Chappel Dom,
Robinson Blue, Whitehackle, Grimmie, Bacon Warhorse. Description: B. B. reds,
grouse color, straw neck, white and yellow legs.
THOMPSON WHITE: Originator, Thompson,
Okla. Bloodlines: White Dr. Hutchinson Cock X white Australian hens.
TEXAS RANGERS: Originator, Col J. H.
Madigan.
WHITE HORNETS: Originator, Prof. J.
A. Morre, Woodville, Miss. Bloodlines: La. Cotton Ball, Thompson White, other
blood. Description: white.
BACON WARHORSE: Originator, Col.
Thomas Bacon, S. C., 1850’s. Bloodlines: Baltimore cock X John Stone Irish
Gilder hens. Description: Black, black with lemon hackle and saddle, st. comb,
dark legs, daw or hazel eyes.
HOPKINSON WARHORSE: The Bacon
Warhorse by Hopkinson. Another of very few greatest strains.
GILKERSON WHITEHACKLE: Origin (North
Britons) England. Imported by Geo. Gilkerson, 1845. Also bred by W. L. Morgan.
Description: Light reds, much white in wings and tail, red eyes, white and
yellow legs, white under hackle, some spangles.
KEARNEY WHITEHACKLE: Originator, Mike
Kearney of N. Y. Bloodlines: Imported Irish Whitehackle, Brown Red Cock and
Durea Boston R. H. Cock. Description: Black reds, brown reds, spangles, white
and yellow legs, red eyes. The White hackle is one of this country’s best
all-time breed lines.
WISCONSIN RED SHUFFLERS: Originator, D. H.
Pierce, Wisconsin. Bloodlines: Huddleston Irish Brown Red, Mahoney Gull,
Newmacks. Description: Black reds, brown reds, dark legs and eyes.
WISCONSIN RED SHUFFLERS: Originator, D. H.
Pierce, Wisconsin. Bloodlines: Huddleston Irish Brown Red, Mahoney Gull,
Newmacks. Description: Black reds, brown reds, dark legs and eyes.
-THE
PHILIPPINE SLASHER KEEP (by M.P.O.)
COOP
WALKING
There
are several good coop walks being published today. The main thing about coop
walking is - Take good care of your fowl and be regular with their feeding time.
Generally speaking, a mixture of 1/3 whole corn, 1/3 laying pellets, and 1/3
oats, that have been soaked overnight, is a good feed mixture. A little Calf
Manna, a pinch of fresh meat or dog food, and plenty of fresh green stuff is
always good for game fowl in confinement.
The
soaked oats is excellent for helping fowl retain their proper moisture balance.
Fowl have a tendency to dry-out and become stale in confinement. The soaked oats
will off set this tendency.
WORMING
Worming
is very important. I use Donell-Blemel worming treatment. This consists of a
level teaspoon of lye to a gallon of water. The water-lye solution is poured
over the oats to the point that the oats are thoroughly covered. The oats are
allowed to soak overnight and are fed to game fowl for three consecutive days
each month, giving no other feed whatever. Give the fowl all the oats they will
eat during this three day period.
MY 14 DAY KEEP
I have
found that my fowl cut better with the knives, right out of the fly pen. When
fighting out of a small stall, it seems that the fowl don't cut nearly as well.
Their movements are too restricted in a small stall, the same as ours would be
if we were placed into a small closet several days before an important athletic
event.
Fowl are
brought in from the coop walk, where they have been scratched in deep litter,
down to nearly their proper fighting weight. They are checked for any defects,
muffed a short session, checked for lice, dusted, and given nothing to eat for
at least 24 hours. Then; I give a "ZIP" tablet, followed by all the bread and
milk they will eat.
After
the fowl are cleaned out with the "ZIP" routine, I clean their pens and put in
about 6 inches of fresh straw.
During
the first week of the keep, I count out 6 grains of corn and toss them into the
straw after each work session. The last week of the keep, no corn is tossed into
the straw, as I want them to loosen up so that they will cut properly with the
knives.
Fowl are
muffed again after about a week in keep, to re-check for any defects I might
have missed during the first muffing session. Water is left in front of the fowl
at all times during this keep, unless otherwise specified.
THE WORK
Fowl in
this keep are worked only once per day, early morning. It isn't necessary to
work fowl any more than that, as it takes the sharp edge off them. Fowl should
be only flirted. Under no condition should a cocker use a tail-pull pole, tilt
table, or run fowl on the table. These exercise methods definitely retard a
fowl's reach and cutting ability with the knives.
I have
always used the "Rock-a-bye" system of working fowl. This is - stand up to the
table with the fowl facing away from you, flirt him forward and backward,
increasing daily the number of flirts and the speed. The faster you flirt your
rooster, the faster he will fight. Flirting alternately forward and backward
gives your rooster his proper "Battle Balance." Don't work at all the day before
the battle. Just handle and pet your rooster gently on this day. He needs rest.
Gradually work up to a total of 30 flirts each morning. Some fowl are slow to
take their work, so be patient and gentle in this matter. If a roster isn't in
proper condition with 30 flirts, there isn't any use wasting your time with him,
as he is a dub.
THE KEEP FEED
Bring
your water to a brisk boil and put in a cup of pop corn (or hard flint corn) and
a cup of brown rice. Let the boiling continue for 10 minutes, then; add a cup of
"Quick" barley and a cup of raisins. Let this mixture boil for 10 more minutes,
a total of minutes in all. (If; whole grain barley is used, this whole grain
barley must be put into the hot water along with the corn and rice.)
After
being boiled the prescribed 20 minutes, this feed mixture is drained immediately
and allowed to cool overnight. Then; the next morning, a large can (13oz) of
evaporated milk is added to this feed and stirred briskly, then; set into the
refrigerator until used. (This feed can be kept for a week with no ill effects
to fowl.)
The most
desirable way to feed game fowl is twice a day. However; if a mans work holds
him until ark, it is much better to feed fowl once early every morning just
after they are worked. They shouldn't be bothered at all after sundown. Fowl
begin sleeping and resting at that time.
You
cannot clog or crop bind a roster with this feed mixture. Therefore you can feed
your fowl all they will eat and throw. This isn't a fattening feed, as the milk
and raisins keep a fowls intestines working constantly and the rooster will
actually reduce down to his proper fighting weight with this feed.
My
experience has been that stags will eat about three heaping Davis Measures of
this feed per day, while cocks will only eat about two heaping measures. My
recommendation would be to feed the fowl all they will eat and throw by the next
morning, if; you want to show strong and bright fowl in the pit. Let me repeat -
this is not a fattening feed. This is a reducing feed carrying words of strength
and health.
This fed
should be stirred every day so that the fowl retain their proper moisture, and
also note that the top of the feed container should fit snug, so that the proper
moisture is retained during refrigeration.
THE POINTING FEED
Put one
cup of brown rice i not a pot of boiling water. Let boil for 10 minutes. Then;
add one cup of "Quick" barley and let this mixture boil another 10 minutes, a
total of 20 minutes in all. (If; whole grain barley is used, the whole grain
barley should be boiled 20 minutes along with the rice.)
This
pointing feed is drained immediately and set aside to cool overnight. When feed
is thoroughly cooled, it is stirred well and then covered with evaporated milk.
Drain immediately, for at least 20 minutes. Caution - Do not stir this feed
before draining, or else the feed will pick up too much milk and ruin your
pointing procedure.
No water
is given on the battle day.
THE POINTING
Upon
arrival at the pit, on the battle day, give each fowl a level Davis Measure of
the point feed, making a note of the time on a scratch pad. This is known as
your first feed.
Exactly
one hour from your first feed, and every hour thereafter, give each rooster a
level teaspoon of this point feed, taking the feed off the top of the mixture.
Remember - Don't stir this feed at all. Feed your fowl every hour until they are
heeled for their battle.
You will
notice that your fowl will begin hitting their peak sometime about the two hour
mark, after their first feed. And; they will hold their peak as long as you
continue with this procedure. It's very important that you make a note of every
feed time, spacing them an hour apart, as they will throw this amount of feed.
They should not be fed any more or less.
NOTES
The
point feed is wonderful after-battle feed. Just add some water and give your
rooster a good feed after his battle. It is also and excellent travel-feed. Just
give your fowl whatever water they want and about 1/2 as much point feed, as
they normally get of the keep feed. Your fowl will retain their strength and
will never go off keep. This feed is very cooling, nourishing, and a wonderful
after-battle fever retardant.
TRAVEL CHART
This
chart is the result of my long years fighting the game rooster. I always make it
a point to arrive at the pit at least 3 hours before the battle. It takes that
long for a cock to settle down in a new cockhouse, even if the rooster was
brought only 100 yards away from his old cockhouse. Being in a new cockhouse
will stir up a roster. It takes little time and some careful pointing to bring
him to his proper battle peak.
Distance Traveled Time Required
Up to
100 miles 3 hours rest
100 to
200 miles 4 hours rest
200 to
300 miles 5 hours rest
300 to
400 miles 6 hours rest
400 to
500 miles 7 hours rest
CONCLUSION
I have
made a good living and lifetime study of game fowl. It takes a good fighting
roster and the very best of care and pointing in order to win in our pits today.
The most important thing is to set every cock down equally sharp, which can be
done if you follow this keep closely.
Always
give an "IT" tablet on Friday night and another one on Saturday night, for
Sunday battles. "IT" tablets are a blood coagulant-mild stimulant in a
vitamin-mineral base. Your rooster will stop drinking water soon after the first
"IT" tablet is given. He will begin to point himself and will fight much sharper
than ever before.
Every
small detail is important when working with game fowl. If; you will follow this
keep right, you will be surprised at the sharpness of your fowl, and; you will
also enjoy the winnings you take home.
- Mr.
M.P.O.
Philippine Islands
Stag Derby
Keep (by Roy "String King" Bingham)
No
morning feed.
Spar and
select stags, wipe heads and inside mouth with witch hazel. Do NOT trim feathers
unless you know the derby will accept stags with feathers trimmed. Some do not.
Evening
Mix five
tablespoons taxatine Epsom salts in one quart of water. No more than ten dips
per stag.
Work
will be 10 runs, 15 fly's and rub down up to 3 days before fight, morning and
night.
Morning
and night feed will be 2 tablespoons, heaping, for each stag, of the following
mixture:
2 cups hen scratch
2 cups wild bird seed
1 cup whole corn
3 whole raw eggs
Mix and
stir, let set and dry at least
10 hours
before each feeding.
Place
stags in sun coops or scratch pens at least 2 hours each day.
Five
days before fight spar again. Select best stags for derby, wash face and inside
mouth with witch hazel.
Three
days before fight at night, (Friday) if you on Sunday, give stags orange juice
in place of water after feeding. Also Saturday morning after feeding.
Place
stags in dark stalls Friday night and rest until fight Sunday morning.
Give 2
dips water after Saturday night feed. Also give one gelatin capsule to each stag
after Saturday night feed.
14
DAY KEEP BY (by Teddy Tanchanco)
I.
Feeding During The KEEP
Let
me reveal to you what some cockers call "secrets" in conditioning of gamecocks
for the pit. For starters, let us talk about feeding.
Some
cockers say that the secret in the proper conditioning of gamecocks is feeding.
It is undeniable that feeding plays a very important role in conditioning, but
let us bear in mind that feeding should be considered in relation to other
factors, a trainer must monitor while preparing his set of feathered warriors.
With due respect to other trainers, please consider that what I am about to say
here is only what I personally do.
First
of all, before going into a "14 days KEEP", we must select candidates. If you
are to fight a 5-cock derby, simply multiply the number of cocks for an entry
(say, 5) by three (3) to come up with the number of candidates you must choose
(thus, 15). It is assumed that these cocks went through a pre-conditioning
process where they are in good flesh, healthy and full breasted, but without gut
fat or "sapola". It is best that they are about 200 grams higher than their best
fighting weight observed during the pre-conditioning. It is better to lower a
cock's weight during the KEEP rather than to increase it, which will take a lot
more time, effort and uncertainty. Remember that we will do a 14-days KEEP, not
21 or 30.
Now,
"what is the correct fighting weight?" you may ask. The best fighting weight is
that weight where your cock fought best during the spars conducted while he is
in the pre-conditioning. In the pre-conditioning stage, record each cock's
weight before every spar. Grade his fight according to your preference. He might
be good, very good, excellent or neutral during these sparring sessions. In at
least five (5) sparring, you must be able to know his best fighting weight.
Consider the weight where he fought best as his best fighting weight.
Give
your candidates only bread soaked in milk as flushing feed on the day of your
selection. Deworm them the usual way, and delouse by simply spraying on the
feathers. Do not deep the cocks in water. Now they are all cleaned up, inside
and out.
To avoid
disease and other infections during the KEEP, I inject Combiotic (only 1cc. per
bird) on the breast of each cock on the first day.
For the
feeds during the KEEP, I try to maintain a 16% crude protein (C.P.) level from
day one up to the eleventh (1-11). To achieve this, mix several ingredients as
follows:
50% -
whole corn
20% -
red wheat
10% -
whole oats or jockey oats
10% -
Royal Pigeon Feed
10% -
Pellets (16% C.P.)
Corn is
the staple food of fowl which supplies a lot of carbohydrates and some proteins.
I use red wheat instead of the white one because red wheat is easier to digest,
and it has a higher protein level than the white. If you can't find Royal Pigeon
Feed, you may substitute this with 5% green peas and 5% yellow peas in the
ration. These feedstuffs supply most of the proteins in the cock's diet. The 10%
Pellets indicated above may be Holding Ration Pellets or simply Pigeon Pellets.
Just make sure that the pellets you use contain 16% crude protein. Look at the
packaging for this information. The above proportions are measured in dry
weight.
All
grains are soaked in water for at least 9 hours. Right after each feeding, soak
the grains you will need for the next. Soaking increases seed moisture and
stimulates germination. Germinated grains produce more proteins. Legumes, like
green peas and soybeans, must be heated or germinated to make their crude
protein metabolizable. Otherwise, we cannot utilized the proteins from these
grains. Mix the grains with the pellets only at feeding time. You now have what
is called your base feed.
To this
base feed, add some white of hard boiled eggs. Chop finely one (1) white of a
hard boiled egg for every four or five cocks. This supplies some proteins and
help retain moisture inside the cock's body during this time. Hard boiled egg is
given to the cocks all throughout the KEEP (day 1 to 14).
Aside
from hard boiled eggs, add bulk (fiber), and natural vitamins and minerals to
your feed by mixing finely chopped tomatoes or cabbage or lettuce. These veggies
should make up 20% of your feed mixture, while the other 80% is from the base
feed with hard boiled eggs. We use volume measurements now, instead of weights.
If we take one (1) tablespoon as 20%, then we can mix (1) heaping tablespoons of
veggies to four (4) heaping tablespoons of the base feed to make a hundred
percent (100%). This will be the final make up of your feed from day 1 to 11.
Provide
the cocks a steady supply of grits from day 1 to 9 of the KEEP. Grits help the
cocks digest the feed and keep the gizzard well-exercised. They remain in the
gizzard for about a week. Thus, grits are withheld 5 days before the fight to
empty the gizzard not only of feeds, but also grits, on fight day.
Feed the
cocks on a regular basis. Always feed on the same exact time everyday. I give my
morning feed at 7 a.m. and the afternoon feed at 4 p.m. Give each cock two (2)
heaping tablespoons of the feed mixture mentioned above. This is about 30 to 40
grams of feed per cock. During the day, the cocks should be crop empty by 2 or 3
p.m. to show that their digestive systems functions well. It takes only six (6)
to seven (7) hours for feeds to be digested in the body of the fowl. If one
becomes crop-bound before the afternoon feed, take him out of the KEEP.
I like
cocks which are voracious eaters and fast grinders. These show that their system
is really at work. Picky cocks or those which leave feeds in their cups must be
experiencing something unpleasant. They must be observed and treated for any
disease, and sent back to pre-conditioning. Try always to observe the cocks in
KEEP before, during and after feeding. If possible, observe them the whole day,
everyday, and even during their sleep.
With
this feeding system, we expect the cocks to loose that extra 200 grams off their
weight in the beginning of the KEEP. Therefore, daily monitoring of weights is
necessary. Weigh the cocks in the morning before feeding. A cock should lower
his weight by as much as ten (10) to twenty (20) grams per day and arrive at his
best fighting weight on the 11th day of the KEEP or on the last three (3) days
before fight day. If one loses 50 or more grams within a span of 24 hours, the
cock must be sick or incapable of bearing stress in the KEEP. Back to the
pre-conditioning he goes. Three (3) days before the fight, we do the Carbo-Loading
Technique.
II. Carbo - Loading Technique
Carbohydrates is the main source of energy for cocks in training. Like human
athletes getting ready for competition, the gamecock must store enough energy in
his body to be used during the fight for his life. The critical days in
conditioning which are the last three (3) days before the fight, finds the
trainer wanting to load up his gamecock with as much energy as possible to give
him that power he will need. This is done by "Carbo-Loading".
Simply
put, "Carbo-Loading" means the technique of increasing or "loading up" of
carbohydrates in the diet of gamecocks during the last three (3) days of the
Keep as a part of "pointing".
The
objective here is to increase the available metabolizable energy (M.E.) in the
cock's body that will be used during the actual fight. This is achieved by
increasing the caloric content of the feeds given to the fowl. From the 16%
crude protein base feed we have given from the first to the 11th day of the
Keep, we gradually increase the amount of carbohydrates to 75% or 80% in the
last 3 days. Gradually, so as not to upset the digestive system of the cocks.
To the
base feed, for every 100 grams, add 10% corn, or an equivalent of 10 grams of
corn on the 12th day, 20 grams on the 13th day, and 30 grams on the 14th, for a
total of 80% corn in the ration on the 14th day. Thus, the total amount of
protein decreases, while carbohydrates increases. The usual amount of two (2)
tablespoonfuls of feed is given to the cocks daily, morning and afternoon.
Why use
corn? First of all, feeding corn gives your gamecock that "snap" every time he
hits his opponent. Just compare cocks fed with corn to those which are not.
Gamecocks that have corn in their diet feel more fleshy or muscular although a
bit heavier, while cocks with no corn feel loose to the touch.
Corn is
my choice for carbo-loading because corn has the high amounts of carbohydrates
(metabolized energy) compared to other feedstuff. The table below shows the
amount of nutrients available from common feed ingredients found in grains used
as conditioning feeds. We can see that oat groats (dehulled) has the highest
metabolized energy (3400 Kilo calories) followed by corn with 3366 Kcal.
However, oat groats is also high in crude fats. This will tend to bring about "sapola"
or gut fat in the cock. Experience also tells me that feeding more oat groats
turn the droppings very green and take away that "snap" from the cock's buckles.
Thus I prefer corn which also has high metabolized energy, but low in fats. This
metabolized energy is stored in the body of the fowl for at least 2 days before
it is transformed into fats if not used during this time.
On the
last 3 days before the fight, soaking of the grains is usually regulated.
Moisture in the body of the cock is dictated by various conditions, both of the
cock, and his environment. Because of these, water intake is managed during the
last three (3) days of the Keep.
|
Feedstuff
(Name)
Barley
Corn
Green
Peas
Oats
(whole)
Oat
Groats
Red
Rice
Sunflower Seed
Wheat
(trigo)
|
Crude
Protein %
11.5
08.9
22.0
11.0
16.0
07.3
42.0
13.5
|
Crude
Fat %
1.9
3.5
1.0
4.0
6.0
1.7
2.3
1.9
|
Crude Metabolized Energy
M.E.(Kcal./Kg.)
2620
3366
2600
2550
3400
2670
1760
2620
|
Carbohydrate Loading Keep (by Don Blansett)
Foreword
The
sport of cockfighting has existed for hundreds of years, but like most sciences,
more progress has been made in the past fifty than all those preceding years.
The average cocks of today could defeat those cocks bred and fed in the 1920's.
Why? For the same reasons human beings today are stronger, bigger and faster
than their grandparents: breeding and feeding. Great strides have been made in
genetics and nutrition in the past fifty, and particularly, the last twenty
years. Consequently, average life expectancy, general health, and size have
increased by leaps and bounds. In the animal world horses run faster, cows
produce more milk and beef, hens lay more eggs, and so on.
Cockers
of today are more knowledgeable and generally better educated, with more
available information, than ever before. But, while most cockers are great
students of experience, as a rule, they do little to actually study genetics and
nutrition with an eye toward improving the ability and performance of their
fowl. This conditioning method is an attempt to enable many cockers to "catch
up" with the latest scientific developments in nutrition and training. The
research, the studying, and the experimentation have been done for you. This
keep can work for you.
I
have read dozens of keeps, and while I have not seen one written in the last ten
years that would actually be detrimental to your fowl, most have been fairly
similar as to feed and work. You will find that this keep is different in its
approach, than any you have ever used. To be successful, you must follow this
keep closely, in quantity of feed and work, and in type of feed and timing.
This
conditioning method is based on the latest studies concerning athletic
competition, and what are cocks except athletes? The principle behind it is
known as "carbohydrate loading". To understand fully how this keep works, you
should know a little about nutrition and its effects. So you can understand the
ideas involved, I will try to simplify them.
The
amount of energy that a muscle will be able to produce depends on the amount of
"glycogen" stored in that muscle. Glycogen is a chemical that serves as fuel for
the muscle. The more glycogen present in the muscle, the longer that muscle will
be able to act effectively. Studies have shown that if glycogen stores are
depleted by exercise and a low carbohydrate diet, then replaced by rest and a
high carbohydrate diet, the muscle can store twice as much glycogen, or energy,
as it had originally. No one needs to tell you what this means in practical
terms: your cock will hit harder, and more importantly, will be able to do it
much longer than he would have otherwise. He will maintain that deadly punch for
a greater period of time. I will explain about carbohydrates, proteins and fats
in more detail when we get to the subject of feed.
Finally, let me say that this is the closest thing to a workingman's keep that
you can find. It does not require 12 hours a day to be effective. The maximum
time needed would be I to 2 hours in the morning and the same in the evening.
The quantity of the time spent with your show of cocks is not as important as
the quality of the time. Make sure that your time is well organized and
efficient. This keep does require good cocks in good health cocks that are well
bred and have been fed and cared for properly all their lives. There is no keep,
and especially, no substance, that will make up for lack of care. So if you
bought this keep because you have been lazy your cocks are in poor health from
lack of care then you cannot expect this conditioning method, or any other, to
do them any good.
Pre-Keep? What's That?
My
feeling on this subject is that our cocks should be in a pre-keep all their
lives well fed, but at approximate fighting weights, worm free and deloused. I
hope you don't have cocks that are any other way. I have fought cocks off
strings, out of fly pens and out of holding pens with no appreciable difference
in performance when this keep is used for the last fourteen days. The important
thing to remember is that fowl are like people, in that they become bored with
the same surroundings. Whenever possible, rotate cocks on a regular basis from
fly pens to holding pens to string walks. This will keep the cocks active and
alert and prevent them from becoming coop-stale. Handle your cocks often, except
in molting season, to tame them and to determine their weights so that their
feed rations can be adjusted accordingly.
I
cannot overemphasize the fact that you should put up only those cocks that are
gentle and well mannered. Life is too short to fool with man-fighters besides,
it is my belief that most man fighters are not truly game. However, don't
confuse man fighters with nervous, high-strung fowl. Also, many otherwise gentle
cocks will hit back if mishandled or when they are becoming sharp during the
keep. Like boxers, cocks in training love to snap a few punches at an available
target. In summary, just let me say that if a cock doesn't gentle down, doesn't
stop hitting or pecking when picked up, after a week's gentle handling, don't
consider him for a keep. Kill him, breed him (if you are a fool), but don't put
him up to fight.
Since I
am on the subject, I'll attempt to give you a good all around feed routine, as
well as a worming and delousing schedule. Your daily feed for fowl on your yard
should consist of approximately 55% carbohydrates, 15% protein, and 30% fat.
Since most laying mash is 12% to 15% protein, you will need to supplement the
protein, unless you use the 20 to 30% protein lay pellets offered by some feed
stores. A good all-around feed, and one that is as cheap as possible without
sacrificing quality, is one part scratch (which consists of cracked corn and
wheat), one part 20% laying pellets and one part soaked oats. For those cockers
in the less temperate areas, substitute whole corn for scratch in the winter.
Sure, you can buy more expensive feeds, but for a good sound all-purpose feed,
this mixture can't be beaten. As for supplementing protein, in moderation, you
can use "trout chow", fish meal, or even some high protein dog food such as
Gaines. But always remember use these in moderation. Because, after all, you are
feeding chickens, and the closer you stay to a natural diet, the better off you
will be. A lot of fancy feeds will just upset a fowl's digestion. The opinions
on amounts and times of feeds would fill a book much larger than this. Adjust
your feed in accordance with the weight of the cock. Whether you feed once or
twice daily depends on so many variables, I wouldn't even begin to try to
dictate to you climate, types of pens, breeds of fowl. Go with what works best
for you. One hint though, if you have rather severe winters, make sure your
cocks are fed as close to dark as possible, the more corn the better, if this is
a second feed. It has been my experience that a cock with a full crop can stand
those cold nights much better than one that is empty.
As for
worming and delousing get on a regular schedule. If you have string walks,
change the leg bands every Saturday or Sunday or whatever, just do it regularly.
The same goes for worming and delousing. Fowl should be wormed and deloused
every month. In fact, I often delouse and worm any time I have an occasion to
catch one of my fowl running loose on the yard. Any number of good products are
available for getting rid of lice. Several are advertised in your gamefowl
journals and I have heard good comments about most all of them. Most farm and
feed stores carry a brand of lice powder. I know some cockers who use Black Leaf
40 to delouse, often with a chemical dip, but I don't advise this. I know of one
prominent cocker who completely submerged all his battle cocks in a delousing
solution way over 100 of them. By the time he had finished the last one, he
looked back, and the first ones were beginning to fall over. He lost every
single treated cock that day, and although he is beginning to win again this
year, it took him three years to regain his previous position. So I don't
recommend dips, nor do I recommend Black Leaf 40 for the amateur.
The
only worm medicine I can recommend is the Wormal product from Salsbury
Laboratories. If you follow directions on the bottle, Piperzine liquid wormer is
okay too, especially for young fowl. But remember, Piperzine only kills one type
of worm, the roundworm, while Wormal will kill three types of worms, including
the roundworm. Don't be misled by sensational claims in the gamefowl journals
advertising a revolutionary new worm medicine. If a more effective worm medicine
had been discovered, believe me, the commercial poultry men would be using it.
They're using Wormal, and so am I. Some worms hatch on 10-day cycles, so to be
safe, worm on Saturday, and then 10 days later. After that, follow your monthly
schedule to control worms. Just remember that worms, like lice, can never be
completely eliminated, just controlled.
Vitamins: Myth or Magic?
The
truth about the effects of vitamins actually lies somewhere in between. I have
had to rethink my position on vitamins recently. Three years ago, I, along with
most scientists, doctors and nutritionists, felt that all the vitamins a person
needed were contained in a well-balanced diet. 'Using vitamin and mineral
supplements was just paying for expensive urine, the body's way of discarding
unneeded vitamins. However, today most experts agree that extra vitamins can
play an important role in any serious training program, as long as massive doses
are not used. It is quite possible to die from overdoses of vitamins vitamin D,
for example. Certain vitamins such as C and B-12 are water soluble, which means
that the body does not absorb what it doesn't need, and one cannot receive an
overdose from these vitamins. So, in conclusion, let me say that although
vitamins and their effects are still not completely understood, it is clear that
cocks under the physical strain of intensive conditioning can benefit from an
extra vitamin and mineral supplement, such as we advise in this program.
Water, Water, Everywhere ...
Every
keep I have ever read mentions drying cocks out before they fight by limiting
their water intake. Some of the directions are moderate and some are radical.
Cockers thirty or forty years ago often gave their cocks no water for the last
two days! In to-, day's fast-paced competition, I know of no surer way to get
them killed. Cocks need moisture in their bodies to convert glycogen to energy.
Exactly how much water a cock needs is determined by so many factors it is
impossible to predict with any certainty but I will say this, give your cocks
all the water they will drink during the keep. Believe me, the cocks are better
judges of what they need than we are. In fact, in extremely cold weather, you
may want to encourage cocks to drink by giving them warm water or warm water
mixed with powdered milk. Always keep water by your cocks during the keep, up
until 24 hours or so before the fight, when you want to regulate every bit of
their feed and water intake. Consider this fact: when a cock loses 2% of his
body weight in water, his ability to perform begins to deteriorate. In other
words, he is riot fighting up to his potential. Two percent of a 5 pound cock's
weight is 1.6 ounces, a little over one and a half ounces. SO, if you bring a
cock into a fight with all the moisture he needs in his tissues, he has a much
better chance. And that, my friend, is the name of the game.
When
pressed, most cockers will describe a cock on point" as a bundle of nerves,
bobbing, clucking, moving a cocked gun. I define a cock on point as being a cock
that is ready and at the peak of his health, strength and well-being. For years,
I have corresponded with a prominent cocker who has continually pressed this
idea on me: "Fight your cocks when they are ready, not when you are." This means
taking cocks to the pit when they are at the peak of their mental and physical
well-being.
"Pointing"
is a natural thing. It is the end result of several contributing factors: the
cock is empty, he has been rested force rested, and he is sexually and
physically frustrated from inactivity. As a result of all these factors, his
blood sugar level is way up, his energy is at its peak and he is not only ready,
he's anxious for an outlet, he wants to fight. Often a cock "on point" is
described as "corky" to describe a cock that is light and bobs like a cork on
water. There is really no way to describe a cock on point but I guarantee you'll
know it when you feel him. This is not something to be taught, it must be
experienced.
Sparring
Sparring can be a valuable tool for the cocker if done properly. First, it is a
tool for selection it allows the cocker to get some idea of how a cock will
fight. Secondly, a cock can learn some things during the course of a session,
good habits as well as bad. Thirdly, sparring can be a valuable outlet for a
cock's pent-up energy, allowing him to vent his rage and delay his coming on
point too early.
Some
cockers use a catch cock and attempt to "teach" a cock to hit at a cock's tail
even if he can't see his head. Also, some cockers tie a catch cock's legs to see
if he will score on a down cock. I am doubtful if either of these practices does
the slightest bit of good, because I think the aggressiveness of the cock is
determined in the brood pen.
However, cocks, to a certain degree, can be taught to score quickly. This is
the way. First, bill your cocks really well, flush them and set them down close
together, close enough so they'll get at one another very fast. Let them have a
good pitting, enough to make them really mad, but don't let them wallow and
break feathers. After a 15 second rest, flush them and set them down about three
feet apart. Now, here is the important part: when the cocks break, catch them
immediately. Then without rest, set them down 5 feet apart, let them break and
catch them. This time set them down 8 feet apart, let them break and catch them.
Set them down again 8 feet apart and this time let them mix it up good. The
purpose of this type of sparring is simple: the cocks will begin to score more
quickly and break higher. Also, you are not giving them enough time to get tired
and start ducking. If you let cocks spar until they are very tired, they will
learn to duck really quickly, and this habit must be avoided.
Work
To
attain maximum condition, a cock must be worked, and worked hard. Not all this
work should be forced work, or hand-work-most of it should, in fact, be natural
work, the kind a cock will do in a good fly pen with litter. He will scratch and
fly up and down many times a day, complementing the handwork you give him. I
feel that it is impossible to get a cock "muscle-bound" as some keeps would
allow you to believe. It is quite possible to make a cock sore and stiff by
overwork. That is why this method allows a cock to "rest up" from his
conditioning program two full days before his fight. This "rest" period serves
several purposes. First, if the cock has sore or stiff muscles, this time allows
those muscles to regain their original elasticity, yet retain the strength that
has been developed. Secondly, blood sugar begins to rise with the decrease in
work, beginning the pointing process. Thirdly, it allows for the glycogen
content in the muscles to increase.
Some
cocks will not be able to take the work of this conditioning program. That in
itself should give you some idea as to whether your cocks are really quality
fowl. It has been my experience that truly well bred cocks won't fold under the
pressure of the work. Rather, they will rebound and thrive on such activity,
eager to work.
While
realizing that volumes could be written on this subject alone, I think that it
is sufficiently important to touch on at least the major points. In fact, I
believe that the majority of 3-1 and 4-1 derby scores that you see can be
attributed to the lack of attention that most cockers pay to this chore. After
all, your derby show is only as good as your worst cock. If you approach the
selection of your derby show with the attitude that "Well, this cock isn't so
good, but maybe I'll get lucky and meet another weak cock," then you might as
well stay at home. Always select the best cocks you have to condition. Your
first step in selecting is to examine the overall health of the cock. Eyes
should be bright, feathers slick and oily, and he should just give off an
impression of active vitality. Examine feet and legs for sores or bumbles, the
breastbone for sores, and the mouth and head for blisters. Check to make sure
the cock is lice-free. He should, in your judgment, be within two ounces of
fighting weight. It would be difficult to take more than that off in two weeks
without weakening the cock, or put more than two ounces on with a rigorous
training schedule. Check for broken wing or tail feathers. Do not fight cocks
with badly broken feathers. For a bent feather, where the shaft is bent but not
broken, carefully straighten the shaft, and apply a small piece of tape to the
feather. Usually, this will prevent further damage, at least temporarily.
If,
in your opinion, the cock is in good health and near his actual fighting weight,
then set him aside as a definite possibility. After you have narrowed down your
selections to a workable number, weigh them, match according to weights, and
spar. This is where the real selection process takes place. The good selector
will be able to separate the duds from the aces, or at least the good cocks from
the poor ones.
If
possible, have two other people actually pit the cocks, so you can be free to
observe. Watch how the cocks move, where they are aiming their licks, how
accurate they are. Are they well balanced, do they land-.in position to hit
again, do they have to have a bill-hold to hit, do they duck, are their licks
delivered with snap? During the rest periods, how hard are they breathing? Is
either rattling? The answers to these questions should determine your choices.
How
many cocks to actually put up is a decision you must make, although this may be
determined by the number of your available cocks. I would personally hesitate to
enter a conditioning program without at least two cocks more than were needed.
For example, for a 5-cock derby, I would put up seven or eight. If you put in
two hard weeks of work on a show of cocks, it is heartbreaking to have one of
your cocks come down with a cold the day before the derby and have to miss it.
Remember Murphy's Law: if anything can go wrong, it will, and at the worst
possible moment! So, be prepared. I can't tell you how many times this has
happened to me. About three years ago I had up six stags for a 5 stag derby. The
morning before the derby I went to load my stags, and lo and behold, one stag
was beat up, slip-bill and bloody, and one other was missing! After much head
scratching, I finally-figured it out. What happened was this: the evening before
the derby, one stag had gotten out of his holding stall probably I hadn't
latched it securely and immediately began to fight with the closest stag through
the door. When darkness fell, the stag that was loose had stopped fighting and
wandered outside (the door of the cockhouse was open for ventilation), into the
woods-where he either died or was eaten by varmints. To make a long story short,
determined to fight in the derby, I picked a stag off a string walk, loaded up
and left. Know what happened? You guessed it. I won four and lost one the
substitute! I still tied for the derby, but that one fight cost me about $3,000
in prize money. So don't let it happen to you put up enough cocks to make up for
these emergencies.
Drugs and Supplements
Most
knowledgeable cockers will admit that there are many drugs and additives that
can increase the performance level of your fowl IF, and this is the big if you
know how to select the correct drug, administer the proper dosage, and give it
at the proper time. A "drug", whether you realize it or not, can be simply
defined as any substance that can alter any one of the thousands of chemical
actions that take place in the body. Alcohol is a drug. So is aspirin. Since the
use of drugs during the conditioning process requires so much knowledge and
experience in dosage, timing and the effects of the drugs themselves I can only
recommend the use of two drugs for the average cocker. These two drugs are
testosterone (male hormone) and vitamin B-12. All the successful cockers I know
use one or both of these, whether they will admit it or not.
Testosterone, used in moderate and sensible doses, will help activate the
pointing process by stimulating certain functions of the body that relate to
physical and mental development of the male sex drive. Given in prolonged,
massive doses (which you should never use), it will promote the growth process,
causing accelerated muscle and bone growth.
Vitamin
B-12 is a good, all-around the therapeutic drug. It promotes good appetite and
soothes the nervous system. You cannot overdose on B-12 because it is
"water-soluble", meaning the body passes off what it cannot use. In fact, some
people swear by B-12 as a sure cure for a hangover! B-12 is especially helpful
in traveling cocks because it seems to calm them without any tranquilizing
effect.
The use
of these two drugs with this conditioning method is completely optional. If you
are unsure about administering them, then by all means, don't do it. Chances
are, your cocks will do just as well without them, especially if you have doubts
about their usage. As you become better acquainted with this method, you may
want to try them later.
If
you decide to use these drugs, you must follow my directions on dosage and
timing. This is very important. I believe you should never give more than ¼ cc
of any drug to a cock in keep. Remember, a cock has a small body mass compared
to humans, so dosages must be adjusted accordingly. Always use a small gauge
needle to avoid bruising or otherwise harming the tissue of the cock. Give all
injections in the breast muscle, not near a bone. The ideal needle seems to be
the disposable type used by diabetics. Most drug stores carry it and you won't
need a prescription to buy it. Just ask for insulin syringes. Never use one
needle for two different drugs, and dispose of the syringe after three or four
injections.
One
cautionary note on the use of testosterone (male hormone) prolonged or often use
of this drug may cause the cock to be sterile later on. You see, by injecting
the male hormone, the body's natural production of testosterone may be
discouraged. In other words, if you use this drug on a cock in keep more than,
say, four times a year, he won't lay eggs next year, but he might not be fertile
when bred to hens. So, don't use it more than a couple of times a year on any
cock you intend to breed. I don't usually breed battle cocks, so I don't have
that problem.
Since I
don't want to promote anyone's products I won't recommend any particular
supplier of testosterone or B-12. You can obtain either drug from advertisers in
the gamefowl magazines or from a vet.
As I
said before, there are drugs that will produce incredibly sharp cocks, if given
at the proper times with the proper dosage, but if you make one error in using
drugs, you will have incredibly dull cocks at fight time. So, I think if you are
a beginner and/or do not have a lot of experience and knowledge, you are better
off without the drugs. Remember, consistency is the key to an 80% win average,
and I guarantee consistency will be easier without the use of a number of drugs.
At a
later date, if the demand for such a book is sufficient, I will offer a complete
guide to the use of drugs on gamefowl.
Traveling Cocks Next Stop, Sunset?
There
are as many theories about transporting cocks from Point A (your cockhouse) to
Point B (the pit), as there are Polish jokes. Common sense and a basic knowledge
of fowl should be your guides. Gamefowl sleep from dark until dawn, (The
exception being, of course, when your mother-in-law visits. Then they crow all
night.) So, when you travel from Point A to Point B you want your fowl to obtain
the maximum rest; in other words, to sleep through the trip if possible. The
logical method, then, is to travel your cocks at night, allowing just enough
traveling time to arrive at the pit when your cocks would normally be waking up
at dawn. If you live within a four to six hour drive of the pit, and if that pit
conducts its fights during the daytime, that's exactly what you want to do.
If you
insist on traveling your cocks to a pit more than 8 hours away, you must realize
that you are facing a number of problems and you are placing yourself at a
distinct disadvantage with the other, closer entries. If you really want to
fight at Sunset and it's 1000 miles away, my advice is:
1.
Condition at the pit.
2. Fly
your cocks down on a chartered plane.
3. Move
to Louisiana.
If you
plan to haul your cocks more than 8 hours at a stretch forget it. You are not
going to compete on an equal basis with any local cocker at the pit, even if
your cocks are better than his. Ever wonder why it's so tough to whip a guy on
his own turf? Think about it. With the number of fine local pits in the country,
it shouldn't be necessary for anyone to travel that far to enter a derby.
If you
fight at night, take heart. All the other entries do, too. Personally, I don't
think you gain anything by moving your cocks to the pit a day early. The fact
that the cocks are in strange surroundings will nullify any advantage you
achieve by hauling them at night. The best you can do is hauling them as empty
as possible and hope for the best. Let me add a piece of advice here. Whenever
possible, haul cocks empty or at least when their crops have been emptied. If
they are traveled with feed in their crops, they will not digest this feed and
it will often sour.
The Keep Feed
As
was mentioned previously, the principle behind this conditioning method is
"carbohydrate loading". To accomplish this, we must feed a low carbohydrate-high
protein feed up until the last two days of the keep when the "loading" process
begins. To "load" a cock, work will be dropped off and the cocks will be fed a
high carbohydrate diet to increase the amount of glycogen in their muscles.
Although this all sounds complicated, it really isn't as you'll see when we' get
into the feed and work.
The
whole point of a keep is to put as much feed through a cock as possible without
increasing his weight. We want to avoid upsetting the fowl's digestion at all
cost, so we will only feed natural feed during the keep feed that is a regular
part of a chicken's diet or feed specifically formulated for a chicken. To
insure proper digestion, a fowl must have good, hard grit to help grind his
feed'. Granite grit, not oyster shell, must be available to your cocks at all
times. The best way to provide the grit is to keep cup of it in your fly pens.
You may even want to mix a handful in your cocks' feed during the first week of
the keep. Make sure all your feed is both fresh and clean. Musty and dusty
feed will throw your cocks off completely, if necessary, wash the feed before
mixing it.
Your regular keep feed should include the following:
Oat groats (not whole oats, they will often constipate cocks).
Corn (hard flint corn is best).
Racing pigeon feed (the mixed feed, not Pigeon chow).
Laying pellets (at least 20% protein, but 30% is better).
Chopped boiled eggs (about one-third per cock).
Buttermilk (unsalted is the best).
Cottage cheese (unsalted if you can get it).
To mix
your feed, use a large bowl, shallow enough to stir the ingredients. Put in two
parts pigeon feed, one part corn, one part oat groats and one part lay pellets.
Mix well and add the correct amount of chopped hard-boiled eggs. Never feed raw
eggs, the whites coat the intestinal tract and hamper digestive absorption. When
this is thoroughly stirred, add enough buttermilk or cottage cheese to moisten
the entire feed. Alternate between cottage cheese and buttermilk for moisture.
Both are beneficial because they are high in protein and provide needed bacteria
for digestion. Mix no more than one day's feed at a time and store in a
refrigerator so that it will remain fresh. This is the feed you will use up
until the last two days of the keep. For the last two days, you will use scratch
grain (chopped corn and wheat), lightly moistened with water. Each feed, morning
and evening, will consist of approximately 1 1/2 ounces of the mixture, except
where noted. Remember treat all cocks as individuals. No two are alike. I can't
emphasize this fact enough. This is especially true when it comes to the amounts
of feed. The 11/2 ounces is merely a guide cocks should be weighed each morning
and evening and feed adjusted accordingly. Weight control is something you must
pay close attention to, and it is something you must learn by trial and error.
It simply can't be taught. The best advice I can give you is this. Hold a cock
in your hands and feel back toward the vent, between the end of the breastbone
and the pelvic bones. The flesh there should be thin and firm. It should not
bulge; if it does, the cock is fat. Don't hesitate to skip a feed or two if the
cock doesn't show a good appetite and willingness to clean his feed cup. Don't
be surprised if the cocks drop an ounce or so during the first few days of the
keep. This is natural they should rebound soon and be trying to peck the bottoms
out of their feed cups.
After
the feed is measured into the cups, I sprinkle a little vitamin supplement over
the feed mixture. You can use any number of products for this Vitapol and
Headstart are two products I have used with good success. Both are available
from the gamefowl journals or most good feed stores. This supplement should be
used up until the last two days.
The Work
As I
have stated before, there is no substitute for good, hard work in a training
program. Handwork for the cocks will consist of "flys" to the board. Your work
board should be approximately waist-high, lightly padded and out of view of the
other cocks to keep them from being excited. To train a cock to the board, stand
a couple of feet from the bench and lightly toss him to it. Rub him and repeat
the process. Soon he will get the idea and will willingly fly to the board, even
straining against your hands, from as far away as 8 feet. About six feet is the
ideal distance to have the cock fly to the board. Just hold him under the wings,
back up, and let him go. This is the work I refer to as "flys".
After
cocks are hand-worked and fed each morning, place in fly pens with clean litter.
Make sure fresh water is always available to the cocks while they are in the
flypens. In the evenings, bring the cocks into the cockhouse, work them, and
then place them in their keep stalls. It is a good idea to always allow the
cocks ten minutes or so to cool off before feeding. Allow cocks ample time to
drink after feeding-up until the last day.
Work and Feed Schedule
Day Actions
Day 1 -
(Sunday) Morning: Spar cocks when empty, put in keep stalls. Evening: Worm and
delouse. No feed today.
Day 2 -
(Monday) Morning: 10 Flys Evening: 10 Flys
Day 3 -
(Tuesday) Morning: 20 Flys Evening: 20 Flys
Day 4 -
(Wednesday) Morning: 30 Flys Evening: 30 Flys
Day 5 -
(Thursday) Morning: 40 Flys Evening: 40 Flys
Day 6 -
(Friday) Morning: 50 Flys Evening: 50 Flys
Day 7 -
(Saturday) Morning: 60 Flys Evening: 60 Flys
Day 8 -
(Sunday) No work today. No morning feed. Spar about 10:00 a.m., then place in
fly pens. No work in the evening. Regular feed. If you are using the drugs, give
¼ cc of testosterone and ¼ cc of B-12.
Day 9 -
(Monday) Morning: 50 Flys Evening: 50 Flys
Day 10 -
(Tuesday) Morning: 60 Flys Evening: 60 Flys
Day 11 -
(Wednesday) Morning: 50 Flys Evening: 50 Flys
Day 12 -
(Thursday) Thursday Morning: No work. Feed scratch grain, moistened with water
for next two days. Place in fly pens. Evening: No work. Same feed as morning.
Day 13 -
(Friday) Morning: No work. Take cocks out of keep stalls, handle and rub, then
return and feed. Darken stalls. Evening: If cocks are to be fought Saturday feed
three-quarters of the regular amount. If fight is Saturday night, feed a full
feed. Give ¼ cc of B-12 and ½ cc of testosterone.
Day 14 -
(Fight Day) Morning: If fight is during the day, no feed. If the fight is at
night, feed three-quarters of the regular amount.
During
the last two days of the keep, you must begin to regulate moisture intake to
insure the proper pointing process. Watch the droppings carefully they should be
moist but firm, not dry.
D-Day at the Pit
Your
first chore upon arriving at the pit is to secure a cockhouse, preferably one
that can be darkened completely. Clean out all stalls you intend to use and
replace the old litter with fresh. After this is done, one by one put your cocks
out in small (approximately 21 x 21) wire pens to stretch and empty out after
their trip. Make sure the ground is swept clean under the pens. If the pit
weighs in derby entries, take each cock and weigh him in before putting him in
the cockhouse. To avoid searching, it is a good idea to write down the leg band
number and/or weight on the door of each stall as the cock is placed in it.
Completely darken the cockhouse, and avoid disturbing the cocks until it is time
to heel.
If the
pit allows you to weigh and record your own weights, you can gamble some.
Obviously, you want your cocks to meet the smallest (lightest) cocks possible so
you can "under-weigh" your cocks as much as you dare. I have known cockers that
would weigh their cocks in two ounces light, hoping they would lose that much
between then and fight time. (I have also seen cockers have to cut every feather
except wings and tail off the cock to meet weights, too). So, to be safe, record
your cocks at least one-half ounce light on your sheet because the cocks will
lose at least that much.
The End
The
most important thing you can learn when you are conditioning cocks is that each
show represents a new set of difficulties, a different series of problems. Be
flexible, use your common and "chicken" sense. But remember, above all, you must
have good cocks to win. There is no substitute for quality fowl or for quality
care. To be in the winner's circle, you must have both. If problems arise, you
can email me and I will do my best to answer your questions.
-
Don
Blansett
